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Very rarely, you’ll come across a piece that needs a little extra TLC. In the early testing of our paint, we had an old 1940’s desk that had a red mahogany hue that was REALLY challenging to cover. We did need to use more coats than usual due to the bleed of these formulas that were used in the 40’s, but it did work out. I've also had some luck using the Clear Coat on top first, then coating with Statehouse White. It's been about 8 months and I'm happy with how the paint has held up:

mahoganybeforeafterdeskMake sure you clean your piece carefully with soap and water and old-fashioned elbow grease. We do NOT recommend using chemicals such as TSP or any other commercial cleaners.
● Mold and Mildew: Use 2 capfuls of bleach to a gallon of water. Use gloves and wipe down the affected area. Allow the piece to dry completely before painting.
● Mahogany/Red Stains: You may have to use a primer in these instances. Kilz works great for this.
● Raw Pine: Be careful when refinishing a pine piece. Sometimes the resins can seep through giving little bumps to the piece.

How to Test:
Find a small discreet section on your piece, (Not underneath the chair, etc. because you want to ensure your test also includes any furniture polish, etc. that may have been used in the past,) and paint a small 1” section. Let it dry overnight. Scratch the middle with your nail. If it adheres, you’re good to go. If it flakes off a bit, remember, it takes 30 days for a quality paint to cure on the surface (especially plastic!) You may have to give some of these pieces a little TLC, but it’ll be worth it in the end. However, if you find a piece that fights with you from the beginning, it may be time to just walk away. 

Decoupage with Napkins??? YES

Check out this video on how I used Dollar Tree Napkins to achieve this look with our Statehouse White Propack: